Testing DSLRs to Shoot Video

So much has been said about the benefits and outstanding picture quality of using one of the new large image chip DSLRs from Canon, Nikon, Panasonic and others that we decided to do a test. It is unquestionable that the large image chips these cameras incorporate have raised the quality of the image produced to a level that was ony achievable with much more expensive video cameras in the past. So with this in mind people are jumping on the bandwagon and buying what are essentially still cameras with video recording features (DSLRs). However often other considerations are overlooked. For example, there are many comments about the wonderful look that a limited depth of field the large image sensors can provide. Depth of field is the area in front of and in back of the subject you are focusing on that is in focus. If only the subject is in focus, this small depth of field gives a look similar to what film has been providing forever. Depth of field is influenced by the telephoto setting of the lens and also the aperture set as well as the size of the image sensing chip. The larger the chip, the more telephoto and the more open the aperture, the less depth of field and the more areas in front and behind a focused subject will be blurred/out of focus. Now this really can look good but is it practical for the typical run and gun type shooting that we as videographers do mostly. The answer is yes and no.

To provide some experience and documentation on using a DSLR to shoot a typical event video production in Las Vegas where we have our studio, we did a test shoot with a Canon DSLR, a Panasonic GH1 DSLR and to provide a baseline for shooting video, Panasonic HMC 150 Camcorders

CANON DSLRs

Beautiful picture quality when everything is perfect but not easy to use for run and gun shooting. In low light the depth of field is so limited with any kind of a telephoto shot and wide aperture that you can focus on a nose and a forehead is out of focus. Because the Canon has a mirror you can't use the eyecup viewfinder when shooting video; you need to use the LCD screen. In bright light the LCD screen is useless and for people who need reading glasses you need to hold it at arms length which makes holding it steady very difficult. It doesn't allow you to autofocus on a moving target and because it is difficult to see in the LCD viewfinder, hard to keep in focus. These are some of the reasons you need to buy expensive support systems and LCD viewfinder accessories to get some additional ease of use. Color balancing was cumbersome. Bottom line, very difficult to use for anything but static well lit shots. Audio also requires supplementary equipment such as a digital recorder that you can plug external mics into. If you are used to having smooth zooms in your shots, a DSLR needs a bit of practice or supplementary optional equipment because there is no servo control. The 12 minute limit built into Canon DSLRs isn't much of a problem to us but for long form continuous recording, it is a issue. Canon lenses are expensive and those with a large zoom range are very slow and large. If you want better faster lenses it gets VERY expensive. It is best to rent lenses if you have a big job that needs them because you could easilly spend $10-$20K on lenses alone. We would use this in the future for static or moving on the same plane green screen and product video.

PANASONIC GH1 DSLR

The picture quality was very good. This had a lot of advantages over the Canons. Because the sensor is still large, much larger than 1/3 inch video camera chips but smaller than the Canons, it has excellent picture quality with a more usable depth of field range making it more usable for moving subjects. Because it doesn't have a mirror, you can use the eyecup viewfinder while shooting video. This has a diopter adjustment so for people who need reading glasses it is perfect and while against your forehead provides more stability. It also has an autofocus which though sometimes does some hunting, is usable together with the ability to touch up focus by pressing the shutter 1/2 way plus the ability to also focus manually. There is no time limit on the length of time you can record a clip. You are only limited by the size of the SDHC stick and your battery. I would recommend you have several batteries. The 14-140 lense we used was adequate but very slow (3.5 to 5.6 maximum aperture based on wide angle/telephoto setting). I would say it doesn't compare to the better Canon lenses but the actual shot video footage guality in comparison was better because of the ease of use and the ability to get successful well focused video. Audio here again requires separate equipment because though the onboard mic is decent, it can't compare to a shot gun or wireless setup. What is great is that it gives you control of audio levels easily. Changing color balance was pretty simple with one button, an instant choice of presets and the ability to manually white balance. Because of our experience with this camera we bought the latest version GH2 which we are still trying to learn the features of.

Panasonic HMC 150s

These are regular AVCHD 1/3 inch 3chip HD camcorders and we of course found they are much easier to use on a run and gun shoot than any DSLR. If needed, autofocus is flawless, changing apertures, gain, color balance and all the other pro features we are used to are standard. Actually for well lit static shots and even some poorly lit shots both the GH1 and the Canons provided better image quality. However as indicated, that isn't real life in tradeshow or event video.

SUMMARY

We are easing our way into integrating DSLRs into our work operations because of the outstanding image quality. At present they are not going to take the place of our camcorders for most of our work. As we become more knowlegeable with the GH2 we hope to integrate it more and more.

This article is by Richard DePaso, the president of Aardvark Video, a video production company located in Las Vegas. Richard has been in business since 1987 first in NY and for over 10 years in Las Vegas. Clients have included companies large and small from Mobil Oil, IBM, Verizon, QVC, NY State, the State of Nevada, Samsung and hundreds of others. He is also the President of the Las Vegas Videographer's Association and can be reached at http://www.aardvarkvideo.tv/

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Top 5 Tips for a Successful Bikini Photo Shoot - Part 1

Now that summer time is approaching, a number of models would want to have a least a couple of bikini shoots in their portfolio. This is a must, especially if you are interested to model in sectors promoting party clothes, swimwear and lingerie items. In short, bikini shoots tell so much about a girl's body. This is the time for a model to strum her stuff and show what she is really made of!

The following tips should be helpful both for photographers and models in doing a successful bikini photo shoot:

Tip 1

Planning ahead the location of the shoot is crucial. It must be taken in consideration the amount of privacy available both for a relaxing shoot, as well for the model to change clothes (public toilets can be very helpful). Take note on which days/time the beach/coast is least frequented. Children, pets and people swimming in the background would add unwanted 'noise' to your photos.

Tip 2

It is of utmost importance that you plan you posing sequence for your session. I am referring to those instances when the model is directed to lie down on the sand or sit on a rocky area. Sometimes it is time wasting or almost impossible to remove efficiently the sand that persistently clings to the model's body. Likewise, if the model is to enter in the water, take in consideration wet hair and clothing attires. I suggest that these shoots are left for the last part of the session.

Tip 3

Demand that the model wears loose clothes 2 hours prior the session. This way any marks on the model's skin, such as left by belts, bra straps and fitted clothes are avoided. Keep in mind that time is money for both of you and waiting for unsightly marks to fade away is a waste of time. Planning these things would reduce the amount of work that you as a photographer have to spend editing the photos later on behind the computer screen. Eventually the model would save money too.

Tip 4

If the model is interested to get a perfect tan for the day, make sure that is planned beforehand. I regularly suggest models to choose their sunbathing costume with care in order to avoid awkward tan marks as a result. Strapless bra tops and low rise thongs are ideal. That way when wearing your bikini attires for the shoot your tan would be even all over the whole body.

Tip 5

Swimwear that contains excessive reflective accessories such as golden/silver chains, bangles or buttons ideally should not be used for photo shoots. These produce unattractive hot spots when reflecting sunlight. It also makes it tricky for us photographers to control the amount of light entering through the lens. Girls keep your bikini simple!

I am confident, that if you follow these basic guide lines, you are on the right path to be a better model. If you are a photographer, knowing the basics can relief a lot of the stress related to photo shoot models.

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Top 5 Tips to 'Break the Ice' During a Photo Shoot - Part 2

I have been approached by quite a few photographers and models expressing their concern about feeling nervous, edgy or uncomfortable during a photo shoot. The reasons for this might vary from one person to another, still, there are some practical things that would help if implemented in order for a photo shoot to run smoothly, be productive and why not, be more fun.

I would like to share with you these five helpful guides that I have found very practical during my work.

Tip 1

In order for both of you to feel at ease, it would be ideal if you set a meeting before the actual shoot. The meeting can be formal such as discussing the photo shoot with the model at your studio. If you do not have such facilities, you can always opt for an informal meeting such as discussing the photo shoot at a caf?. In so doing, this meeting would help to break the ice in order for you and the model to be more at ease with each other, towards a more effective photo shoot. Such meetings should be conducted in a professional way i.e. being polite, cordial and focused.

Tip 2

A good way to start a photo shoot would be to put on some music in the background. This can be done both for outdoor or studio shooting. Ask the model beforehand what style of music she likes or any particular tracks that are her favourites. Many models find it much easier to pose with music in the background. As a photographer you can ask the model to dance if she feels more confident in doing so. That way you can shoot without having to direct poses for the first few minutes of the photo shoot. Some of my best photos have actually originated from these first few moments.

Tip 3

It would be a good idea to have some refreshments, coffee or tea and sweets available. These can turn out to be very helpful in those particular moments, when the model gets stuck or tensed up, especially during a long challenging session.

Tip 4

Needless to say having a couple of jokes up your sleeve to through around while you are shooting would definitely help and be much appreciated. Please do not over do it and make sure that the jokes are of good taste!

Tip 5

It is important that you compliment your model all through the session. You should use words that enforce the good work that is being done from her side. Words such as 'great', 'wonderful', 'fantastic', 'brilliant' and 'awesome' would give the model more confidence and perform better. You should use general terms and at no time, should your comments be sexist or racist.

Together with my above tips you can invent other original ways and means towards creating a calm and relaxing environment for your photo shoot. It should be your primary target to break those barriers that inhibit both you, as a photographer, and the model from giving the best during a photo session.

Are you still finding it difficult to pose your model? Would you like to add to your posing repertory? I suggest you have a look in here http://michaelabela.weebly.com where you can find more details in order to be a more successful photographer in photo shoots.

Author: Michael Abela

I have been fascinated by the human body since the tender age of 7, always with a pencil in hand sketching figures and models. Photography for me is a way through which I aspire to capture the beauty, emotions and passion transmitted through the human body.

Source: http://michaelabela.weebly.com/

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Top Camera Settings Checklist - What to Set Before You Shoot

Learning cameras can be fun, entertaining, and challenging. With the new found ability to take remarkable pictures comes a hefty checklist of camera settings, lighting worries, and framing issues. While most DSLRs have a plethora of settings, there are a few that constant constant monitoring and changes as your shooting environments and subjects change.

Shutter Speed

The shutter speed is one of the first items I think about before I snap a picture, and while I rarely keep a camera set to shutter priority, I must have a mental priority of the shutter speed needed to freeze motion. In most cases, I am fine with the fastest shutter speed my camera may obtain at a given exposure, but in my mind I need to have a minimum shutter speed (which I wish was a setting on my camera), that if I go below that number, I need to make a change. For portraits, it may be 1/60-120th of a second while for candid photographs I may strive for 1/250th of a second. I am always looking and paying attention to this number in almost every circumstance.

Aperture

There are a few less applications where not paying attention to your aperture may ruin your photos, but they exist nonetheless. Think about how much depth of field you need in any particular photograph to get all necessary objects in focus. If you are shooting single portraits, wide open apertures of >f/2.8 may be perfect for keeping those eyes in focus while a group photograph of several rows of people may require f/5.6-f/8 to keep everyone sharp.

ISO

While accidentally having your ISO set to 800 while photographing outdoors in bright light (guilty) may not render your photos useless, you will lose detail and sharpness at higher ISO settings. I typically keep a base setting for each environment and fine tune those settings as needed. If I know I'm going outside for example, I will go ahead and set my camera to 200-400ISO, even before checking my exact lighting conditions. This should allow me to shoot perfectly in the sun or in the shade without having any issues. Even though I may end up eventually lowering it to 100ISO if my lighting is bright enough, at least if I forget my pictures will still be great.

Focusing Mode

This is a setting that is frequently overlooked unfortunately because there is no current method of correcting out of focus images. While you can reduce grain from high ISO or alter your exposure in post, missing focus will ruin every photograph. If your subject is reasonably still, single shot modes will suffice. Pick a focus point (chose the center if you do not already have a composition in mind) and lock focus on your subject. Feel free to recompose after locking focus as long as your subject is not moving towards or away from you. If your subject may move, focus using a servo focus mode and position your focus point to the position of the frame you would like your subject. You may need to change your aperture to give you extra depth of field. Chose your focus points carefully as you will not be able to recompose after locking focus though as the camera will continually adjust focus.

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